Corner Cabinets, Fillers & Scribes: Solving Out-of-Square Adelaide Walls

The corner cabinet is universally considered the most challenging part of any DIY kitchen installation. In this guide, we break down how our pre-machined corner units work and how to prevent costly mistakes.

1. The Anatomy of an L-Shape Base Corner

Our L-shape base unit features a wide 900mm x 900mm footprint designed to give unobstructed access into the deepest part of your benchtop junction:

• Bi-Fold Corner Hinges: Uses Blum 170-degree wide-angle hinges paired with bi-fold door intermediate hinges, allowing both doors to fold neatly out of the way.
• Pre-Bored Shelf Supports: Heavy-duty adjustable internal shelves to hold pots, blenders, and slow cookers.
• Corner Posts & Buffers: A precision-sized corner post prevents the door handles from colliding when opened.

2. Setting Up the Corner Post Clearance

The most common DIY error is pushing the corner unit hard into the corner without checking clearance.

1. Always start installing from the corner cabinet first.
2. Check that both adjacent cabinet runs will have at least 50mm of clearance so that handles don’t clash with drawer faces when pulled out.
3. Level the unit across all four corners using the adjustable feet before screwing it into the wall studs.

3. Scribing Fillers Like a Professional

A filler piece is a strip of matching cabinet material used to bridge the gap between your end cabinet and the wall:

1. Hold the filler strip against the wall and use a compass or small timber spacer block to trace the exact contour of the wall onto the filler.
2. Cut along your pencil line with a jigsaw or track saw with a fine laminate blade, beveling the cut slightly toward the back.
3. Fix the filler from inside the adjacent cabinet using 28mm countersunk screws.