How to Measure Your Room Like a Cabinet Maker

A successful flatpack kitchen or laundry project comes down to one critical step: accurate measurements. As a flatpack buyer, you are in control of the tape measure, which saves you thousands in contractor design fees.

Here is the exact step-by-step checklist our joiners use when measuring on-site in the Adelaide Hills.

The 3-Height Measurement Rule

Walls are rarely straight, especially in solid brick, timber frame, or older stone homes. Always measure every wall run at three different heights:

1. Floor level (100mm up) — Where the cabinet kicks and bases sit.
2. Benchtop level (900mm up) — Where your stone or laminate counter will meet the wall.
3. Overhead / ceiling level (2100mm to 2400mm up) — Where your upper cupboards and bulkheads align.

Cabinet Maker Pro Tip: Always design your cabinet schedule using the smallest measurement of the three, and bridge the gap with filler scribes!

Locating Plumbing & Electrical Rough-Ins

Before placing cabinets in the 3D planner, note down:

• The center point of your water waste pipe from the nearest corner.
• Hot and cold tap isolator locations.
• Power point locations for ovens, cooktops, rangehoods, and dishwashers.
• Exhaust duct exits through the ceiling or external wall.

Accounting for Floor Fall & Out-of-Plumb Corners

Adelaide’s reactive clay soils cause houses to move throughout the seasons. Check your floor with a 1200mm spirit level or laser level to find the highest point in the room.

Always start installing your cabinets from the highest floor point so you can screw the adjustable feet down as the floor falls away, rather than running out of height adjustments.

The Power of Fillers & End Panels

Never design a cabinet run wall-to-wall with zero clearance. We recommend allowing at least 30mm to 50mm of filler panel at every corner and wall abutment. This allows you to plane or scribe the timber to match any bow in the plaster without affecting the operation of your doors or drawers.